Question:

  How do I repair bubbles in my veneer, and how can I avoid them next time? I use paperback veneers and a good quality professional spray grade adhesive, 3M, and a 5 gallon pressure pot.

Answer:

    Veneers can be quite tricky. First you have to consider the type of substrate you'll use, particle board is the most common. Make sure to sand the particle board with a block to remove any debris or other obstructions. This will ensure you won't have bumps or high spots to deal with later when laying the veneer.

    Secondly, prepare the glue. We use HP15 which is a high solids (38%) contact adhesive. Lacquer based solvent works best in a professional atmosphere due to its quick dry time.

Glue must be mixed.

 Just like paint the solids will settle overnight. If you don't mix it your spray will work fine for the first half of your 5 gallon can, the second half you'll be spraying mostly solvent. so your 38% solids will be reduced to 5%.
 

  When you spray make sure to get 100% coverage around the perimeter of your work piece, and 80-85% throughout the rest. Edges are important because, once it lifts after a year or so due to lack of solids, the rest will be exposed to the elements and it will peel and lift from there.

    A new technique I have adapted to my ways is when applying glue, do one coat, let dry 20 minutes, then do another. DO this on both the substrate and veneer or laminate. Sounds wasteful but it's well worth it. This is a sure way to eliminate lifting or bubbles. Most of the first coat soaks in the substrate, applying again will make it sit on top like you want.
 

  Bubbles are created by gases getting trapped in between the layers. So make sure when you touch the glue it doesn't transfer to your fingers. (about 20mins). Roll out your work piece with a pinch roller or j-roller using plenty of pressure. If you do get bubbles poke a hole in them with a pin or something small and roll out again. Overnight it should settle down and stick. Sometimes it help to squirt a little lacquer thinner inside the bubble to reactivate the glue, clamp it down overnight or at the least a few hours. This should be done as a last resort

    These are not 100% foolproof, just tricks of the trade I have learned over the course of my career.

Author:

Frankie Talarico Jr. www.getneds.com

Bulk woodshop supplies